When visiting clients my own suits often draw a lot of curiosity. People want to know why I chose the fabrics and styles that I chose, and what someone who works with fabric every day considers to be good quality. For that reason I thought it might be interesting to talk through my own suit collection.
In the vast majority of cases, when I order a suit for myself it’s not simply a case of choosing a pattern that takes my fancy and going with that. Instead, I like to use every opportunity to test new fabrics and styles as well as improved construction methods that we’ve been working on.
These are some of the suits currently in my wardrobe:
Charcoal hopsack one-button single-breasted from the Holland & Sherry 13oz Classic Worsteds bunch.
I ordered this plain dark grey suit because at the time the Classic Worsteds bunch was brand new, a revised version of the old Perennial bunch. The patterns and colours were more or less the same, all the classic pin stripes, herringbones and plains. But the quality of the yarn had changed giving the new bunch a softer feel without compromising any of the durability.
I wanted to test this new bunch because the old Perennial bunch was rock solid, but a little too coarse for some. I’m pleased to report that the changes Holland & Sherry have made have been successful, so you can now enjoy the best of both worlds at a great price. The Classic Worsteds bunch is one of the cheapest in the Holland & Sherry range but you wouldn’t know it to look at it.
I’ve deliberately given this suit a good battering* and it’s come through completely unscathed. I would highly recommend this collection for the autumn/winter season. The 13oz weight is perfect for those who have to stand on cold station platforms.
*please do not try this at home.
Chocolate brown one-button subtle pin stripe from the Holland & Sherry 9oz Cashique bunch.
Single breasted one-button chocolate brown stripe (wool, cashmere & silk mix).
This was a good opportunity to test a summer weight fabric that combines a very fine Super 160’s wool with silk and cashmere.
As you can imagine the result is an incredibly smooth and ultra-comfortable suit. It feels a bit like wearing silk pyjamas and I was impressed with its ability to withstand creasing as well. For a lightweight suit it never really looked crumpled.
Why chocolate brown? I’m a fan of that colour and it breaks up the monotony of every suit always being navy or grey. Not everyone can get away with wearing brown suits to work but if you can I would recommend you try one.
Tip: Brown suits work particularly well with men who have darker hair and olive/dark skin.
Click here to read about the Cashique bunch
Mid-blue two-button pin stripe from the Holland & Sherry 6 ½oz Dragonfly bunch
Single breasted two-button mid blue pin stripe (ultra lightweight).
Another experiment, this suit gave me the chance to test two different theories; firstly, in hot weather, how cool is a suit made from 6 ½oz fabric? Secondly, what happens when you coat a suit with Teflon?
Firstly the weight; before this bunch was issued the lightest weight fabric I’d heard of was 7 ½oz, and that was very light. To see a bunch come out that was even lighter was surprising. I was excited to see if it was cooler to wear in summer than my other lightweight suits. No-one likes having to wear a suit in 27 degree heat so the lighter, the better in that situation.
From the first day of wearing this I was impressed at how cool the suit was. It was even breezier than the mohair suit that I had. However you have to take into account that the ultra-lightweight nature of this fabric means it will not drape or tailor as nicely as say, a 9oz fabric will. Consequently I wouldn’t recommend this fabric to everyone.
As for the Teflon, those ground-breakers at Holland & Sherry devised something called Nanobloc which is a stain-proof system using Teflon and tightly woven wool. As a result you can pour water over your Dragonfly suit and watch the beads roll off like water off of a duck’s back! Amazing stuff.
Coincidentally on the first day I wore this suit I was caught in a burst of hot summer rain. The suit was battered by rain but after a quick shake off, the jacket showed no signs of absorption and recovered completely within minutes. I’m only left wondering why this Nanobloc technology isn’t applied to all weights of Holland & Sherry fabric?
Incidentally this was my first ever two-button suit. For some reason I’ve only ever ordered either three-button suits or one-button. I liked the two-button style but ended up going back to one-button afterwards.
You can read about the Dragonfly bunch by clicking here:
Plain mid-blue one-button from the Holland & Sherry 8oz Escorial mohair bunch
I’m a fan of blending mohair with wool, click here to read why.
This particular weave is different however because mohair is usually mixed with a Super 100’s wool but in this case it was mixed with a super-soft Escorial wool. Mohair is coarse to the touch so the idea behind that is to try and soften up the suit, and the Escorial wool certainly helps.
I hadn’t used this bunch before so, again, this was another experiment to see what’s possible with mohair. The colour is deep and rich so this particular suit draws a lot of compliments from clients and colleagues alike.
Mohair comes with its own unique sheen and although it’s not for everyone, personally I quite like it.
You can read about the Escorial wool bunch here:
All of these suits were made using our semi bespoke service but of course I have had a few bespoke suits tailored. Here’s an article about my favourite fully bespoke suit.
The next bunch to be tested will be…. The Holland & Sherry Intercity bunch.
Watch this space for the results.